Evan Biddel

Evan Biddel’s name recognition is mainly attributed to his win during the first season of Project Runway Canada and has lived up to his win by gaining a following amongst the fashion flock. His collection included pieces with loads of volume, creating a sense of drama that is often missing from the runway during LG Fashion Week. Biddel brought on a new level with the drop crotch by bringing it all the way down to the cuff of the pant and creating the illusion of a skirt. The harem pant was also emphasized in a few incarnations including a denim pleated pair, which questions the wearability and overall appeal of a style of pant that has been out for many seasons but has failed to massively catch on. The hooded jersey dress in coral would be of greater appeal and would be a knock-out to wear in the warmer months.

RUDSAK

The collection put out by RUDSAK was one of modern classics with an emphasis on outerwear and accessories. The presentation could be edited to emphasize the simplicity of the pieces and not dilute them by presenting them repetitively throughout. Canvas messenger bags accented with leather in neutral tones and the basic tote in a cobalt blue suede are must-haves that will last for ages and never look dated. Cropped leather motorcycle jackets and long vests were modified just so to update standard items to become a new classic in anyone’s closet. The simple lines and neutral colour palette with splashes of red, blue and purple, allows pieces in the collection to work for almost anybody.

NADA

NADA’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection had a tremendous amount of sex appeal with the use of sheer lace that seemed to be material of choice for the designer. The black lace was featured in sleeveless tops and cutouts in dresses, and embellished with glitter appliques. Flawed parts of the collection remained in that certain pieces were trying to do too many things at once, such as a clear vinyl jacket with cut outs of sheer black fabric and lace with turquoise glitter appliques. However, other items which steered itself into “Julian Schnabel-pajamas everyday” territory, such as the light blue robe and pajama infused shirt-dress, brought a new level to loungewear.

NADA’s collection was also styled with jewelry by Shay Lowe. Shay Lowe’s multi-layered strands of pearls, big beads, and massive jewels screamed gaudy in the best possible way. LUSH had a moment to catch up with designer Shay Lowe to discuss the jewels and her collaboration with NADA.

LUSH: How did you and NADA meet and why did you two decide to collaborate?
 
SHAY LOWE: Nada and I met through a mutual friend, Marcello Cabezas, who is also one of the biggest connectors in the city and an amazing artist. And I’m so glad he did. Working with her has influenced me greatly in such a positive way as a designer. I met with Nada (Shepherd) and talked about the project and it just happened organically. She asked me to design for her. I wanted to work with Nada because of her incredible success as a Canadian designer and her reputation and experience. After working with her there are not enough good things I can say about her not only as a designer, but as a business woman. She's amazing.
 


Photo credit: RAYAN AYASH

What were you inspired by for this jewelry collection?
 
I was inspired by Nada’s vision for the campaign and the idea of the glamourous woman and at the same time something fragmented about her. I translated that context and emotion into my designs for the collection in the form of a richness but edgy and eclectic. I wanted it to feel like the woman literally grabbed her jewelry tangled out of her jewelry box and put it on but still looked incredible and had a magnetism about her. The design approach to the pieces was haphazard and not entirely literal.
 
How did you incorporate both your ideas and the vision NADA had with her collection?
 
We met over the course of several months. It was a matter of bringing my sense of design to the project and really getting what Nada was envisioning. It’s one of those things that is difficult to articulate as it is such a cognitive process. It was a collaboration between Nada and I and her amazing team around her. Nada and her team were absolutely incredible to work with.
 
Photo credit: RAYAN AYASH

What are the differences (if any) when creating a line to go with a womenswear collection with another designer in comparison to just creating your own line? Are there any similarities in the process?
 
There were certainly differences in that on a project like this, you have to be able to create on demand. The schedule can be grueling and you have to be flexible. Sometimes the ideas aren’t always there but you have to keep the tap going so to speak. You also have a strong personality, and incredibly open to the ideas of others on the team working together to create something special. I think there are definitely a lot of similarities in terms of the mentality around the design process, sources of inspiration, and having design visions that just come to you. I feel that Nada and I and her team had such great synergy with that. We got each other. That is very important.
 
Photo credit: RAYAN AYASH

Were there any challenges you were faced with this season?
 
The biggest challenge, and a positive one, was that I really wanted to meet Nada's expectations and her team. I am such a perfectionist. I wanted to design pieces that had an element of drama to them. I see this more on the runways on the international scale and drew inspiration from that. My thinking in keeping with Nada’s campaign theme was, not only would the woman be wearing the statement pieces, but she would BE the statement herself. I love a challenge and this collection was additionally challenging in the sense of literally translating abstract ideas and words from our design meetings and the campaign, and making it a reality that would line up with Nada’s vision for her runway collection. It was amazing to see how on point we all were in coming together for the finished looks.

Romona Keveza

Romona Keveza’s eveningwear collection could be summed up in two words: classic elegance. Each gown had its own unique sensibility but had the appeal to stand the test of time. Flattering cuts such as sweetheart necklines and empire waists could be fitted to make any woman’s body look flawless. Silk organza and silk chiffon moved beautifully making the wearer appear as if she were floating down the runway. Many of the gowns were made of a Point d’Esprit which added a touch of youthfulness to some the gowns.

Keveza also showed a number of her wedding dresses. Both a traditional and modern bride would have found something they liked. Shades of white, cream, and blush pink were shown, but the real stunner was a mint green silk taffeta strapless ball gown, which had the cut of a traditional ball gown, but felt modern with not just the colour, but with the emphasis on the fit and simple material of the dress.